There are some interesting philosophical ideas going on with some of the apps too. For example, Jerboa won’t implement client side storage of this preference because they think it should be stored on the server side.

That looks kind a very nicely designed model!

I suggest a much smaller TPU print with supports so you can get a feel for post processing needs. If you print the part well the only way to remove them is with a knife or snips.

I printed wheels for my kid’s folding wagon 1.5 years ago or so. They have TPU treads that are around 5mm thick with three walls and 20% infill for some sponginess. They’ve heald up really well. They’ve been over curbs, rocks, and tons of other surfaces from 2 seasons.

Even for non-draft, 3kg+ or bust! I tend to make bigger prints and running down spools is a pain.

I get the distinction between a conscious decision, like getting a swastika tattoo, vs something that was not intentional. She said she lost the finger while making a shelf during home renovations. I’m guessing cutting wood. I very much doubt she intentionally cut her finger off, but odds are that it was a preventable mistake.

Sharing these mistakes with others does make you vulnerable. That said, it also can serve as a teaching opportunity. Sadly, tons of wood workers from the 40s-70s were missing the tip of a finger or two. Whenever someone talks about something like a table saw in a woodworking forum these days they’ll nearly always receive advice regarding safety.

Depending on what happened they might not make one for you. I drove my car to work, parked in a parking lot, and came back out at the end of the day to a heavily dented fender with blue paint scrapes on my red paint. It was obvious someone hit me. I called the police station, told them what happened, and asked for a police report. They declined and said it might have been a deer. It’s a busy/high traffic area and there wasn’t any green space for atleast a half mile.

I spend all day work on software. I am now a PM after spending 15 years writing code, but totally agree with wanting to not have to worry about hardware/software once I’m done working.

My personal phone is a Pixel 3a. I would classify it as not amazing/not horrible/decent camera and just works. I personally like some of the UX patterns in Android more than iOS, but these days the two are more or less in parity. Unless you get an OE ROM. Those can be a wreck.

Which bit? Refurb used hardware to sell? Purchase used hardware for business use? Genuinely curious.

For joining parts, you could also consider friction welding. I’m not sure how easy it would be to fill a cavity, but bond strength would be great since you would also be the heating the original part.

That’s sad to hear. As I said in another comment here, I migrated when Google Podcasts was killed by Google. I never experienced any playback issues with it. What podcasts apps have you tried? I wonder if they all use a common library.

Google podcasts was a very low feature player, but it also just worked. Antennapod almost seems like it’s trying to be too many things to too many people. I’m not looking for anything fancy. Give me a list of episodes from my subscriptions and let me play them start to end without drama.

I wonder if the floor is falling out on podcasting. I’ve heard more than one host mention that ad revenue is down year over year by a decent margin :(

I migrated to antennapod after Google killed their podcast app.

Antenna pod has a few persistent and annoying bug/quirks.

• If you’re streaming it will often skip forward/backward in time by anywhere from 0.5 to 30-45 seconds when it downloads the next segment. I’ve seen this across a bunch of different podcasts. Conan needs a friend, stuff you should know, this American life, etc. There’s been quite a bit of activity on their forums about this, along with a few attempted fixes, but the problem persists for me
• I somehow wound up with 1+ GB of podcasts despite Auto delete turned on. This is potentially due to the prior bullet. I’ve had podcasts end early (on time) and also run 5 minutes past their end-timd
• The Android Auto interface is not great. The home screen pop-in, or whatever it’s called, will randomly show you 3 podcasts from something you’re subscribed to

I also find the interface somewhat odd.

You have an inbox, which is basically a running feed of new episodes from your subscriptions. You can play those directly, remove them from your feed, or add them to a queue. You can then do the exact same thing from the queue. I would either make the inbox dumber and keep the queue or flatten the queue and inbox.

The app is also massively customizable, which is cool, but some of the customizations interact with other things. Downloading from your inbox can add a podcast to your queue. Deleting from downloads, which is a fourth area of the app, can remove them from your queue.

I do generally like the app, and also like the idea of FOSS, but I suspect there are better commercial options out there.

Esteps and extrusion multiplier are related, but different, solutions to a similar problem. Changing one value by say 10% should be the same as changing the other by 10%.

Esteps is “how far does the extruder motor have to turn to extrude some length of filament”. This lets your slicer know how much plastic volume should be extruded per step of your extruder motor

Flow rate is “crap, different filaments expand/contract at different rates and have different physical characteristics like viscosity”.

This is why the extrusion multiplier setting is associated to your filament profile in PrusaSlicer and all its derivatives. I use a much lower value for ASA (around 0.88 if going slower and cooler) than PETG (0.95 ish) than PLA (1.0) than TPU (1.15 if memory serves).

I’ll also tweak my extrusion multiplier depending on how I’m printing. For example, right now I have an ASA print going. The printer is laying down filament at 30 mm^3/s. To do this I’m printing a bit hotter than I normally would with this filament (245 vs 230). I’m also at 0.92 EM vs my usual 0.88.

No, sorry :( I am just a camera hobbyist, but don’t consume much traditional media.

Hard agree. There’s also the time component to it. If I’m on my phone I don’t want to have to spend much time reading, thinking, and the replying via text. I may hop onto my laptop to reply, but time is precious with younger kids which is why I first looked at the message on my phone…

It probably comes down to how the show was originally shot and/or upscaled. IMO it also comes down to your vision, screen size, and viewing distance.

I remember the early 00s having a high prevalence of, “raa, your eyes can’t tell the difference between 720 and 1080 at 10+ feet unless you have a bolliondy inch display!!!”. I would argue that you can see say 1080 vs 4k on a 50ish inch screen at 10 feet, but the difference isn’t that significant. At least with my vision. It’s the most obvious with high contrast items, like black text on white background.

Newer movie/show shot with sharp modern glass on a high resolution media? 4k. Older upscaled show? I would lean 1080, unless it was shot on film and they rescanned it.

It will also really matter how the video was compressed. I’ve seen low resolution videos look much better than higher resolution videos thanks to the codec and/or settings that were used for the higher resolution video.

Sounds like your infill is curling up? Solid or sparse infill? If solid, it’s likely over extrusion as you said. If sparse, my suspicion is temperature and/or cooling related.

Dimensional accuracy doesn’t necessarily mean detail. What are your expectations? You should be able to get fairly crisp and dimensionally accurate prints, but there’s a ceiling. With FDM you’re ultimately running what could be considered a CNC hot glue gun so absolute accuracy won’t ever be as good as a resin or SLS printer.

Do your parts look good, but their dimensions are off? If yes, you probably need to scale your parts to accomodate for shrinkage. That’s what the Voron team did and their parts fit together really nicely with non-printed parts when printed on a decently tuned printer. Their threaded test prints are a pretty good indication of how well dialed in your printer is.

Some of this also comes down to temp and material, so if you had the perfect interface and changed material you might need to iterate a few times. There are also the design quirks that you learn as you go, especially for things like small holes in parts often being smaller printed than designed. Print a hole gauge set, with a series of holes ranging in size, and use the one whose printed - not designed - dimensions are the one you want.

Why are you looking to upgrade? Are you chasing detail, speed, or something else?

It’s the same thermistor value that I was using previously, but I did replace the thermistor when I installed the NH. This means I’m guilty of changing two things at once, which makes attributing cause hard.

I ran my first prints after the NH install yesterday and all went well, so I’m going to file this in an OCD annoyance vs something I need to worry about.