Any suggestions before trying again after a reset? This is my first go round changing nozzle diameter. I went from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.6 mm nozzle.
After the swap I checked my extrusion multiplier (no change needed) and tuned pressure advance (I had to decrease the value a bit, but it looks spot on now).
As part of the nozzle swap, I also bumped line width from 125% to 150% in Orca Slicer (should be around 0.9mm extrusion width) and increased layer height to 0.3mm. This should put me around 22 mm^3/s of material, which shouldn’t be an issue for a Rapido 2 but this is the most flow I’ve pushed through it so far. Maybe I should bump temp a touch? I’m still at my fairly-low-for-ASA 230 that I was using with my 0.4mm nozzle.
The print didn’t move on the bed and shows no signs of warpage. There also aren’t any signs of curling on the areas that the nozzle must have hit to cause the layer shift.
The only thing that seems like a miss was having z lift turned off while troubleshooting a print quality issue. I had it set to only lift above 0.25mm (not on the first layer) and only lift below z 0mm (this probably disabled z-hop). Z hop when retracting is set to 0.2mm, which is less than my 0.4mm retraction length so it seems like changing the “only lift below below z” value would re-enable z-hop.
Completely agree, but I have no experience with ASA. 22 mm3/s is super high, Id probably start with the highest temp marked on the spool. You can also test your max flow.
On the other hand, you had a layer shift which could happen for other reasons as well
Yeah. ASA basically acts like ABS when printing for the most part, it does need temps to be a tiny bit higher but mechanically everything else is almost entirely the same.
Thanks, I ordered some Polymaker ASA recently, will try it out.
Polymaker ASA is what I’m currently using. You can grab 3 KG spools on Amazon for as low as $50-60 depending on the color (new via prime) if you keep an eye out.
The mix of ASA and a higher flow printer as resulted in a lot more fickle prints though, but this is also true for PETG. Things like EM vary some as a function of speed, so I’ve found that I need to print all my features at a similar speed.
Thx! Sounds like rly good deal, but 3 kg is not for me honestly. I dont print that much and also my spool holder is too small. 500 g spools would be better for me hehe
Not sure what EM is, but if you meant that some parts of print are shiny and the rest is matte, its probably different flow. Having equal speeds should fix that, I saw a video where they reduce max flow as solution
EM means extrusion multiplier, which is also called flow in some slicers. Shiny vs not is usually a temperature thing.