I do this, I have a toaster oven that lives in my garage solely for shop use. Have some foil to act as a bit of a heat deflector, seems to work well enough.

I wanna say it was something that showed up on my clipboard from KDE connect, may have been part of an error message or status message, should have kept it for preservation purposes

I have zero idea, apparently I managed to pocket comment somehow.

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Oh def give it a bit more time, you’ll appreciate it. It’s usually even easier to work with and gives enough time for some of the more complex flavours to develop (specifically from fermentation).

If you don’t think it’ll last long enough could do a preferment (like a biga) with upwards of half your flour and a fraction of the yeast (had decent results doing like 0.5g or less of yeast for 500g of flour), can add more yeast to your final dough if you want (I’ve done similar things to use sour dough discard because I hate wasting it, adds complexity without relying on it for leavening).

Spool3D in Calgary sells sheets of FR4 (the flame resistant version of G10) that are bonded to spring steel sheets. I use with a few drops of the nano polymer adhesive they sell but would probably be fine without (A few drops in IPA seems to do the trick for ABS, lets me spread it extremely thin). I used Buildtak for a while and their surfaces are great, but this was a lot cheaper and extremely resistant, plus I like the surface finish it gives (Also I can source domestically, partly the reason I switched)

Two-spirit it’s (to my knowledge) very much tied to indigenous culture, recognising people who fulfill a traditional third gender, you’ll see 2S included a lot in Canada, official government stuff uses 2SLGBTQI+.

From the 360 Era — Too Human
The control scheme is bizarre at first (right stick is melee) but it works once you’re used to it. It’s Sci-Fi Norse mythology, I recall it having a pretty solid art style. I picked it up used from either Blockbuster or EB because I wanted to see just how bad it was, ended up enjoying it far more than I expected, I’ll give it a “Yeah, it’s ok”, disc images are readily available if you want to emulate it, can find a physical copy cheap online too if that’s your thing.

This is the game that ended up taking down its studio (Silicon Knights, they developed Eternal Darkness: Sanity’s Requiem and Blood Omen: Legacy of Kain, they tried to sue Epic, who countersued and won, probably added to my initial interested tbh.

My partner and I were concerned about that originally but it’s really a non issue for either of us, it’s still way better than not having one.

That’s the predominant one in Canada too, at least in my experience.

Goes with a Chipper Shredder (Woodchipper), sure there’s probably other things named the same way.

I did some testing for some parts for my dad, he keeps bees and lost a shaft support for one of his tools when he was reassembling it, he whipped up a replacement and fired me the stl when I was talking about my printers.

Printing with the shaft in the z needed a lot of supports,

laying it on its “back” was by far the easiest, outside of the support looked a little gross, could have benefitted from supports. Did them all in petg, gave them all to him just so he can get a feel for what 3D printed parts look like as he’s interested in getting one himself (trying to sell him on a v0 if he’s not sure, but kinda thinking about doing a trident)

I use moonlight a lot on my deck for more intense stuff, gets way better battery life that way too. Ended up using the deck a lot more than I expected I would.

It’s a right of passage, I switched all my hotends to fixed blocks, accidentally loosened the block once on the older style hotend after torquing correctly and enveloped the thing in petg, it kinda vitrified too or something in the heat, was like glass so no getting that off.

Generally, blobs off of your hotend, estop it and take a look, that’s a huge tell for a leak.

Worth keeping a few spares around, at least for stuff like nozzles, blocks, heaters and probes.

You can muffle the beeper pretty effectively with some tape, the old air fryer we had terrified one of the dogs because of the incessant beeping. My coffee scale by default beeps whenever you touch it, thankfully that’s 100% mutable.

I also hate this.

Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn’t have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it’s super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.

I don’t have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections. Part quality will vary wildly depending on sourcing too, vorons are very diy and open as the draw, but there’s just so much variability from sourcing, mods, assembly etc.

I have z braces on my bear modded mk3s too, things reliable as heck and easy to service.

It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.

How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.

And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.

Edit: read up on your probe, eddy current based? Sounds really interesting, my first point is probably moot, though possible you could be picking up the texture or if you have strong magnets it could affect it (my bed has an array of strong round magnets, seen others that are just a magnetic sheet), the do call that out in their FAQ.

I was looking through, generally custom macros are in the config folder, unsure if they’ve implemented it differently, here’s the Raise3D repo I found earlier, klipper has some code in c for the microcontroller stuff AFAIK with klippy in python, I’ve not personally dove into the code, just config and macro stuff largely.

Actually digging through a bit, there’s some gcodes in /klippy/gcode.py in the above repo I don’t see in the Mainline Klipper equivalent, like M9999, it might be a start, klippy lives on the host machine.

Yeah, didn’t think it was an image, just images in gcode are encoded.

I did find their github with a klipper config, but yeah, unsurprisingly it’s not there. You could see if it has documentation through the klipper console? I’m betting it’s not going to be in your klipper config unfortunately. Definitely leaning toward it being the portion that has the firmware validate the key and then set things up.

Prefacing this, I have no idea, can’t find any information either, I’m just speculating for what it’s worth.
.What’s kinda interesting is someone posted an identical one to the prusa forums like 2 years ago, no responses unfortunately.

I’m willing to guess it’s data, I’d wondered if it was unique per user but if you both have encountered it… don’t think that’s the case. I’m going to assume it’s sending a blob, vaguely reminds me of image thumbnails in gcode, but those are clear that’s what they are, maybe it’s some executable code that changes printer parameters or how the subsequent gcode is processed by the controller to support the HyperFFF mode.

Don’t love it personally, but I’m willing to assume they’re doing this way to obfuscate what’s happening because its proprietary rather than anything malicious. I don’t really have the tools or knowledge to really try to examine it further however, hopefully someone with that skillset is interested enough.

Edit: is this a cloud first printer? Also totally possible it’s just telling the printer to download something remotely to support that HyperFFF mode, again, can’t really tell, could be worth seeing what’s happening network wise.