I posted this a while back, came across a post on hackaday on doing clear lens on a resin printer with lower effort, the article links an older one about doing clear resin prints that might be helpful. To me they look pretty decent, certainly a heck of a lot better than any transparent prints I’ve done with a filament printer.
As others said though, easiest would probably be doing something like laser cut acrylic and sandwiching the picture between them.
I hope not, it’s apparently pretty awful. You were up to fairly recently able to get Acetaminophen w/ caffeine and codeine (8mg) over the counter in Canada, found an article about a decade ago that mentions liver injury in people, definitely recall reading articles about bans on the sale because of the injury risk.
It’ll cause more zits and the like, more stringing, don’t know that’d 100% cause the issue but certainly won’t help.
I just did a round of nylon last week which is also super hygroscopic, bag’s like at most 8 months old but seal was intact. Even printing out of a drybox with fresh desiccant I noticed more stringing and occasional blobs + nozzle buildup over the few days (Was redoing my hotend so I inspected it, no sign of nozzle leaking), can definitely make overhangs worse.
It’s pretty easy to overdose on Acetaminophen, Wikipedia suggests >100k a year in the us (it’s in so many OTC medication, stuff like cough syrups and the like, really easy to hit the 4g/day max dose)
I’ll still use it, just use it responsibly.
Could try turning the bow forward and see if that changes anything. From what I’ve read, start low with the fan, like 10-15%.
All else fails, still say worth drying it if you can, I’ve had some really damp spools fresh out of the bag before.
What printer and what orientation did you print these?
Almost looks like some of the ones I’ve done in abs where I didn’t get proper cooling (turned to have the bow @ 45°, 90° being straight toward the rear of the printer for reference) either from my fan settings or orientation, could try increasing the fan speed? I know you said you’ve dropped the temperature but personally I still find I need to have the part cooling fan on (do print enclosed though so YMMV)
How dry is the filament, afaik tpu is hygroscopic (been a while since I’ve printed with it unfortunately), I’ve seen messy bow show up on less dry filament, always worth a try anyhow just to remove variables.
Semi related, I was thinking about turning my mk3 into a core xy, came across a conversion for a mk3s that looks to reuse quite a few components, ProosaXY. I really like how many different mods people have done with these old machines, definitely helps keep things useful
100% this, bed cleanliness is the first thing I’d look at for any adhesion issue. Dilute soap and water works well too, just pay attention to your surface, some don’t like any solvents or water, just a wipe with micro fibre.
FiiO has some that aren’t super pricey (they run a range, their entry level stuff is usually really affordable), their amps and DACs are pretty solid in my experience so I’d totally look into one, second hand would definitely be an option there too.
It was one course (had a you fail the course if you got a sub 40% on the final) and I was able to rewrite the exam in the summer, loss of structure killed me coming from hs. Was definitely a wake up for me as well, had study groups and roommates in subsequent years which helped me (and unhealthy quantities of caffeine)
Got diagnosed with ADHD around a decade after graduating, which explained pretty much everything looking back.
Yeah, was like just over a year later, they still are the independent & small label place imo, I don’t have faith that’ll last forever unfortunately. They still are my go to place for discovery and exploration, bandcamp daily still has some interesting finds, I just make sure I download my purchases.
I’ve come to really like WW over the years, that and TP may be my favourite of the console Zelda games, the graphics of WW aged pretty well imo, art style still looks great some 23 years later.
Some places will issue library cards if you work in the city but don’t live there just as an fyi.
Some systems let you check out and sync to an e-reader too, kobos work with my system but I think there’s other ways to get then on there.
Never did like pro level (and never had aspirations to do so), but way back in the day, the Cyberathlete Professional League (CPL) had an amateur league fittingly called the Cyberathelete Amateur League (CAL), we had a small team for Enemy Territory: Quake Wars that we competed in, didn’t do stellar but it was a blast, met people from other teams we’d often practice with or just do pub games.
It was total beer league type stuff, if you can find a group like that imo it’s worth it, would love to have that type of experience again, end the day stakes were low and we played for fun, people took it serious but not too serious if that makes sense, it’s really easy to kill the enjoyment if someone takes it too far though.
Same vein, the Canadian/Laurentian Shield has areas dating back as far as 4.2 billion years, recall a geo prof in uni suggesting it would have been extremely tall, Wikipedia suggests 12km.
Stuff gets unreal to me at geological timescales.
It’d be coated, but it’s from processing, cold rolling metal generates a lot of heat, especially going that thin (thinnest I was around often was ~0.2mm), we’d often temper the material after processing, mainly for surface finish, mill rolls would be sprayed with lubricating coolant really close to what you’d see in use on a milling machine. This was with steel but same principle applies, pretty sure the lubricant we used is also labeled for use on aluminum mills, but you’d use food safe stuff for kitchen foil.
Industrial cooling towers are usually evaporative in my experience, smaller ones are large fans moving air over a stack of slats that the return water is sprayed or piped over and the collects in well for recirculation, larger ones afaik (like what you’d see at power plants) operate the same idea. Top ups and water chemistry is all automated.
Those systems have operation wide cooling loops that individual pieces of equipment tap into, some stuff uses it directly (see that with things like industrial furnaces) but smaller stuff or stuff that’s sensitive you’ll see heat exchangers and even then the server & PLC rooms were all air cooled, the air cons for them were all tied into the cooling water loops though.
From a maintenance POV though, way easier to air cool, totally seen motor drive racks with failed cooling fans that have had really powerful external blowers rigged up to keep them going to the next maintenance window. Yeah, industrial POV but similar idea.
I’ve used the wired equivalent of the Logitech g502 for a while, and my partner has the wireless one, I liked them as well. I’ve used Logitech, steel series, Razer and Saitek mice over the years, started with a Logitech G7, and there’s a reason I went back to Logitech mice after using some of the others. Imo you can’t really go wrong with one of their midrange models with a decent sensor, won’t break the bank and found them fairly reliable.
As a bit of an alternate, I know you prefer wireless, but I’ve been using a Ploopy Mouse for few months now. I don’t do online fps stuff anymore, but was great for FPSs (some boomer shooters mainly) and RPGs it’s solid, been playing a lot of Diablo 2 recently and it’s great. It runs qmk so it’s customisable however you want, sensor seems decent and the entire thing is open source, designed for user serviceability.
Are you able to mess with the first layer offset on the bambu printers? May need to bring your nozzle a bit closer, especially with a textured surface. Temps seem comparable to the stuff I have on hand.
For cleaning, is soap and water compatible with your surface? Personally found that while IPA is fine for maintenance, a few drops of unscented dish soap in water works extremely well as a degreaser, I’ve literally washed stubborn surfaces in the sink. Petg is super picky with any residual oils and the small nozzle could totally make that worse.
Maybe try running slower? Just to eliminate variables, may be worth running a quick extrusion calibration? Petg can be an absolute pain for bed adhesion in my experience.