Yes, as an alternative to klipper -this really is your end goal - use the firmware by mriscoc, it is really nice and robust.

Gives you more options and the results are better than the stock fw.

Yes, it would be unfortunate for a new user to experience all the horror our distinguished friend EvilSocket is telling everyone today…

Keep up the good work!

Did you uninstall cups and avahi?

Not medically trained or experiencing any illnesses, but keep this in mind:

In just a few years, the medical world made huge steps in treating a lot of things using RNA techniques.

Don’t compare a situation 10 or 20 years ago with the possibilities today.

Ender. Happened back in the days with a 3v2, the stepper drivers on the original mainboard overheat, causing it to ‘miss’ steps.

Replaced the MB with an improved version, tuned the vRef and never had any issues again.

You might look into tuning the vRef for your machine.

Dynamic pricing contract. Planning when to charge the car, running dishwasher etc is small effort.

Adding 5KW solar panels and a change of contract, from >€500 to something like €75. Family of 4, pretty heavy usage.

Asked several to write a c implementation of some basic networking stuff.

ChatGPT: needed to refine my input, got reasonable output. Complete answers, just compile and run.

Google: the output was just a few snippets, nothing to be used as-is.

MSFT: terrible output, and -no suprise here- the compiled code crashed with null pointer references etc. The worst answers ever.

For simple problems (programming low-level microcontrollers), my go to will be ChatGPT everytime.

Google should get it’s act together, Microsoft can exit the stage.

https://robotinfo.dev/

This is just the beginning…

Cars.

• mechanical, no software bugs
• physical buttons, no touch screen
• everything just worked, no need to license the heating of your chair
• freaking lane assist

You get it…

Gravis gamepad :-)

Rock solid!

Gravis Ultrasound with red pcb reporting…

That is not how it is supposed to look, the end result should be at least a couple of inches wide.

Maybe you don’t need to ‘fix’ your retraction settings?

If it looks good enough, why bother?

Wasn’t aware of the test (SuperSlicer user here), and found this.

The tower has multiple notches, each one corresponding to a different retraction length. By looking at the tower after printing, you can see how each retraction length affects the print quality.

So check your surface finish and select the retraction value with the best looks.

Gonna recommend this to all my co workers.

It is not vulnerable to Windows viruses.

:-)

Blowtorch will heat this up way too hot.

Try to get it to a high enough temperature to insert filament to do a cold pull and repeat…

Electrical heat gun (paint stripper) is hot enough. Gas based torches will change the stiffness of your material and you will regret it.

NetApp makes storage devices, just like Dell’s DataDomain.

Looks like the ad is referring to a ST6000NM0034, a drive from Seagate. Personally, I like to stay away from that brand as far as possible.

Have had good experiences with WD.

Depending on the size, but I’ve had success with super glue and baking soda.

https://www.instructables.com/Baking-Soda-Reinforcing-Glue-Repair/

Ender 3v2 as starter here, doubled the price with a lot of upgrades/modifications. Got it running rock solid with Klipper and a microswiss direct drive.

Grabbed the piggy bank and am now really satisfied with my voron 2.4.

But very pleased with the fact I started with the Ender and got to learn then basics.

As far as I can suggest anything; start with something with a large installed base, so it will be easy to find answers or (hardware) solutions to your problems. I can tell you, the installed base for Ender is large, but the quality of the hardware, is what you pay. And they are cheap…