All three of my dual sense controllers have stick drift , I managed to fix 2 of them by taking apart and cleaning them . The third one I’m in the process of replacing the potentiometer just haven’t had time to finish it yet . Barely had these issues on my older controllers that got so much more use.
This is why I exclusively use thrustmaster controllers. Joysticks are modular and cost 15-20 bucks to replace.
I never got the PS Pro controller but I’m well-versed in the Xbox Elite bullshit. The best way I’ve seen to go about it is to buy a Core Elite from Gamestop or a store that has their OWN in-house purchasable warranty (Target goes through All-State or something I think so you have to send it in). It’s $30 to Gamestop but I’m covered for a full-year for when the bumper inevitably goes. If, by some miracle, it doesn’t, I go anyway and exchange it for a new one at a local store for no controller cost, and pay Gamestop another $30 for the warranty. It’s cheaper than a new standard controller and I don’t have to deal with any additional warranty process. It’s just an exchange. It’s bullshit that it happens, but the game I play the most basically requires the back paddles.
I’ve never had stick drift on the Elites (or any controller otherwise), it’s just bumper problems. I’ve heard the SCUFS get drift pretty badly second-hand and their replacement process is much slower. The new Turtle Beach controller seems decent, but I have doubts about battery life and I’m not ready to buy-in on it yet. The PDP Victric with replacement modules feels very similar to the PS Pro issue where the modules just are never in stock so that’s out too.
Some enterprising business could make a killing with a decent controller, but apparently Xbox won’t license wireless controllers unless you do specific things with them, likely preventing any real pressure to get better.